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Sheila & Bennet Bodens
A Different French Paradox
Recent articles in newspaper financial sections have
reported on the members of the French wine industry bemoaning the fact that
imports from the "New World" were severely cutting into their markets, both at
home and aboard. In France itself, less expensive foreign wines are replacing
the traditional, home grown product. It is our contention, and it has always
been so, that the French wine makers have shot themselves in the leg, with their
own gun.
We have often commented about the great French wines of the
sixties. To tell the truth, they were ethereal. At that time we were lecturing
on wine and blatantly put down the imitative California and Australian upstarts
who were producing raw imitations of French masterpieces, and for the most part,
it was all true. The French, because of their market dominance, began to raise
the price of their wine and, wallowing in their newfound affluence, modernized
and updated their facilities. Out went the tried and true equipment and in went
the stainless steel. The corollary to that is, down went the quality. While this
was going on, some of the more unscrupulous wine dealers were importing wine
form Algeria and Italy and labeling it as better French wine. Fortunately, a
French reporter blew the whistle and in the process, created a very large doubt
on all French wines in general. During this period, the American and Australian
wine industries had come of age and were producing excellent and in many cases
exceptional wines.
So much for the history lesson. Today the American and Australian
wine industry, in combination with that of Chile and Argentina, are capturing
markets once the proud and exclusive dominion of the French. In France, they are
just now waking up to what has happened and perhaps even to its cause. The
French producers have blamed the decline in popularity of their wine on the fact
that wine production in France is mostly a cottage industry consisting of small
private growers, family owned vineyards and wineries and that these cannot keep
up with the huge and affluent American wine corporations. That is an out and out
lie. The southeastern part of France, known as the Languedoc and Midi, are
covered with vineyards most of which are owned by mega international
corporations. That area had been considered too hot to grow grapes, or so the
French thought, until they adopted California growing techniques. Now the grape
thrives there. Burgundy, and Bordeaux are the hegemony of a number of large "Negociants"
who buy wine, bottle and ship it. Ever hear of Georges Duboeuf, Barton and
Guestier (B&G), Mouton-Rothschild? Small producers … right.
The excuses are weak and really not too believable. This is not
to say that there are no producers who are making really fine wines in France,
there most definitely are, and the beautiful wines of Alsace prove that. We try
to report on these "better" wines in our columns, but for the most part, the
French wines of today are quickly made and quickly released with the profit
motive seeming to be their main concern.
We have tasted many of the wines coming from France and have
found most of them to be wanting. We are aware that the style of the French
wines is very much different from the California wines that we are familiar
with. Remember, we were drinking the French wines in the 60's and know what
quality they were capable of. We are also aware that the particular growing year
has a greater effect on European wines that it does in the new World. So we take
all of that into consideration in out reviews and opinions.
We believe that the time is right for the French producers to
examine their own products, in light of the wider world market and the changing
tastes of the public. There is a definite reason for their decline and it is not
competition. The answer is very simple, new world wines offer the quality and a
style that the modern consumer wants and all this at an affordable price. Simply
put, there is no competition if the quality and style is not there. The French
will have to search their own hearts and palates to determine their future
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