Sheila & Bennet Bodenstein

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Kenwood Table Wine Series           

There is a theorem in chemistry; “the simplest empirical formula is ALWAYS correct.” This means that if a complex chemical equation can effectively be reduced to a simpler expression without changing the meaning, it is the correct expression. It looks as though Kenwood Vineyard, a producer of fine wines in California, has taken this expression to heart and has run with it.

            To compete in the ever volatile moderately priced table wine market, Kenwood has introduced three new wines that represent winedoms holy trinity; red, white and rosé and wines are simply named red, white and rosé, There are no lip twisting names like Gewurztraminer and no foreign names like Viognier, not to say that the latter are not excellent wines, but the names, as they would say in Brooklyn, “ain’t American.”   

            What prompted this new line is easy enough to understand; producers are beginning to price themselves right out of the easily affordable wine market. The results of this is well illustrated the introduction of Charles Shaw wines, affectionately known as “Two Buck Chuck.”  These wines, which sell for the amazing price of $2, are slowly making their way across the country. They are very simple wines, similar to what the French call “Country Wines,” and represent the barest minimum in qualities. They are however drinkable and can accompany most meals. We are sure that the royalty of winedom as well as the wine snobs will pooh pooh the last statement but we believe in the American market place and the American people and believe that if the wine was not any good it would languish on the store shelves and in a short time disappear never to be seen again regardless of the price. Two Buck Chuck is drinkable, and is succeeding in the market place. There are very few of the flavor and aroma attributes that we seek in a wine; for that we have to go up a bit in price.

            It is in the $6.99 to $10.99 price area where wines begin to present some quality and character. We know that the three Arch-Duchesses who read this will be incensed at that statement, but we do not know many people who can put a $25 bottle of wine on their dinner table every night; us included. Kenwood to the rescue.

            With the introduction of their Table Wine series, Kenwood has put its reputation on the line. It is a gamble on their part because Kenwood is famous for its exceptional quality wines that are not know to be in the “easily affordable” price region. We will tell you now that the experiment (if you can call it that) has succeeded magnificently. Kenwood has brought their famed quality to wines designed for everyday dinnertime fare and has done so while keeping the price extremely affordable.  

Kenwood Vineyards 2004 Red Table Wine ($7). This is a red wine made as a red wine should be. It is a blend of three grape varieties, the fruity Zinfandel, the flavorful Petite Sirah and the Italian favorite Barbera. To properly marry these grapes, they have spent 18 months aging in oak barrels; a process used in only the better wines. The flavor and aroma stresses cherries (from the Barbera), strawberry (from the Zinfandel) and spice (from the Petite Sirah) all in generous amounts. This very affordable wine can accompany red meats, chicken, pasta and any of the light meat dishes.

 Kenwood Vineyards 2005 White Table Wine ($7). This blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the fruity Muscat Canelli delivers a rush of tropical flavor and aroma. The wine has the crisp acidity which is expected in any good white wine and the flavors of pineapple, mango and allspice. This is a fine selection to accompany salads, seafood, pasta dishes with white sauce and cheese. 

Kenwood Vineyards 2004 Rosé Table Wine ($7). Rosé wine accompanies all of the food possibilities and can almost be called a universal wine. This rosé is made from the fines grapes available, Merlot. Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera. With a heritage like that it has just got to be great. This is a full flavored wines stressing apples, watermelon and cherries all supported by a crisp acid finish. Wonderful.